Chanel review piece due to be published-agated.

I never publish stuff up here before it is printed/ handed in/ edited/published somewhere else. but meh, rules are made to be broken, so this is my Chanel review piece....read it and weep. with the wonder.....or chuckle at the thought that I think of myself as a journalist!!!!

Its no small feat to get a group of fashionistas including fashion journalists, couture

collectors, celebrities and paparrazi into a warehouse in Paris. But it’s even more difficult to imagine the likes of Anna Wintour attending a show in sub zero temperatures in a warehouse. The warehouse in question kept a -4 celcius for six days to accommodate the show.

But when you consider that the reason for so many in attendance is the 201

0 Autumn winter collection for Chanel. It becomes clear why so many fashionistas were eager to attend even if it meant jumpers and mittens in Spring. Chanel are famous for their fashion shows. Designed by Karl Lagerfeld, the Chanel designer’s previous shows have included barn dances in which singer  Lilly Allen popped out of the trap door in the floor. It’s easy to see why Chanel is one the shows worthy of frostbite.

Lagerfeld did not disappoint. Models emerged as if floating on ice water fr

om the side of a giant ice berg which melted slowly as the show progressed. The iceberg itself was the subject of many rumours. That it had been imported from Sweden prior to the show weighing 265 tonnes and taking 24 ice sculptors six days to complete. It stood at 28 feet tall. Even the weather, cold and unforgiving seemed to reflect the artic theme of the collection. The argument for the ice being that it helped to make the collection seem more alluring against the cold air being circulated throughout the building. The collection saw another designer working with the new trend of mixed textures for next season (Alexander Wang mixed leather and velvet for his winter

 collection) with Chanel blending it’s trademark tweeds into shaggy furs. Models emerged out from the icy smoke in full length furs. Fur trousers, fur jackets and fur hats. Leather sliced into parts of the collection in the form of jackets. Even the traditional Chanel 2.55 bag had been frozen into an ice cube for the occasion. Making it possibly the stand out piece from the show. Even the necklaces and bracelets had been frosted to appear frozen or covered in a simple layer of snow.

The hair and make-up was a subtle nod to the 1960’s with large beehives appearing all over the show. Hair was backcombed and teased into a modern version of the old style. While make-up was dramatic black eyes created by Chanel’s own creative make-up team contrasting against a flawless base. Lips nude helping the eyes to become the main focus of the collection. Nails were painted using ‘Jade rose’. The sister colour to the sell out ‘Jade’ which released in the previous A/W show sold out, had its own waiting list and is now on sale for £100 a bottle on ebay. Chanel re released the color for this season. Which given it’s success with creating next seasons hottest nail colors. ‘Jade rose’ looks set to overtake ‘Jade’ with it’s waiting lists.

The shape was chunky. Chunky knits and furs headlining the show. Another trend also present in the collections of L.A.M.B and Topshop unique for next season. A rustic back to nature theme prelavent in all three collections. Furs, leather and chunky fabrics helped to create a raw element to all three.

The use of fur was notable. Producing full body suits made from fur is a controversal conversation starter which courts an intervention from PETA. But in this case, Lagerfeld had decided to work with faux fur to produce his collection. The question being, how do you get the ladies of Bond street to invest in faux anything?

By rebranding faux fur Lagerfeld could change fashions love affair with fur and inspire more fashion followers to consider switching to fur. By one of the largest and oldest fashion houses presenting fur in such a rich and covetable way it could very well start a trend for using faux. Lagerfeld’s main idea for the rebranding came from his choice of words to describe the fur itself as ‘fantasy fur’ instead of faux or fake. A word not usually used in the fashion industry in a positive way. Lagerfeld also once designed for fashion house Fendi which is famous for its usage of furs in their collections. So the departure from using real fur was a strange but interesting choice.

It was not the only statement made within the show as it was hailed as Karl Lagerfeld’s reaction to the climate change and a response to the change in consumer behaviour. Although the designer was keen to play down any political or economic influences in the works simply telling style.com reporters that

“I saw it in my dream. I saw it one morning before I woke up.” Although fashion journalists reported that it could be seen as a definate response to the Copenhagen Conference from the earlier that year.  It seems that fashion does a more serious edge this season! However some remarked that the show seemed to be an awful waste of water and a disapointing reaction to a topical issue.

Lagerfeld brought the show to an end by showcasing a beautiful collection of white pieces and bridal. Against the snowy backdrop of the iceberg it was a beautiful finish. High collars ruffled around the jawlines of the models and frills descending from the trains of long maxi dresses. The pieces were immaculatly tailored to the last detail.

It remains to be seen if the new collection will be deemed a success financially on the streets of London, Paris or New York as some of the collection can be difficult to wear . The full fur trousers being one such piece. But accessories like the frozen 2.55 bag and the frosted necklaces seem destined to become overnight success stories. It’s an easy way to work a seamingly difficult season.