If it’s a more diverse group than ever before, there is a unifying factor, and that is sustainability. “Most of [the finalists] have integrated upcycling in their sourcing strategy,” said Arnault. “First and foremost, [of course], we appraise the creativity of the candidates. Naturally, if it is combined with an ethical and environmental awareness at the service of creation, then so much the better.” She continued: “This was the case at Phipps, with Spencer Phipps’s fabric sourcing and his informed approach to the environment. Or for instance with Bethany Williams, who is committed to aiding minorities through her involvement in fashion.” (Williams has already been recognised for her efforts by the Duchess of Cornwall, who presented her with the second Queen Elizabeth II Award for Design in February.)
The winner of the LVMH Prize will be announced in June, after the jury meets with the finalists at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. It will be the first jury that Karl Lagerfeld, who died last month, will not be present for. New to the panel this year is Kris Van Assche, who was named Berluti’s artistic director last year. “I am delighted to welcome Kris,” said Arnault. “He devoted a lot of time to discussing with the semi-finalists during our Paris showroom. I am certain his tremendous experience in menswear will contribute something novel to our jury.”
ANREALAGE by Kunihiko Morinaga (Japanese designer, based in Tokyo)
Womenswear, showing in Paris.
BETHANY WILLIAMS by Bethany Williams (British designer, based in London)
Gender-neutral fashion, showing in London.
BODE by Emily Adams Bode (American designer, based in New York)
Menswear, showing in New York.
HED MAYNER by Hed Mayner (Israeli designer, based in Tel Aviv)
Gender-neutral fashion, showing in Paris.
KENNETH IZE by Kenneth Izedonmwen (Nigerian designer, based in Lagos)
Gender-neutral fashion, showing in Lagos.
PHIPPS by Spencer Phipps (American designer, based in Paris)
Gender-neutral fashion, showing in Paris.
STEFAN COOKE by Stefan Cooke & Jake Burt (British designers, based in London)
Menswear, showing in London.
THEBE MAGUGU by Thebe Magugu (South African designer, based in Johannesburg)
Womenswear, showing in Johannesburg.
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